Nat DiBuduo: The Godfather of California Grapes Reflects on Tradition, Change, and the Future of Wine
Honoring a Living Legend
As October marks Italian Heritage Month and the celebration of Columbus Day, AgMeter host Nick Papagni sat down with a true legend of California agriculture—Nat DiBuduo, former Allied Grape Growers President, Fresno State Bulldog, and long-time leader in the state’s wine and grape industry. For 18 years, DiBuduo helped guide California’s grape growers through cycles of expansion, regulation, and shifting consumer trends.
Papagni began their conversation with warmth and nostalgia, recalling family gatherings and Sunday dinners shared between the Papagni and DiBuduo families. “Those were the days where family was huge,” he said, noting that family tradition has always been central to their Italian heritage.
DiBuduo agreed. “That was the tradition. That’s the Italian tradition—family. That’s what it’s all about.”
Growing Up Among the Grapes
DiBuduo’s agricultural roots run deep. He grew up surrounded by vineyards and tree fruit farms, in what is now the Copper River area of Fresno. “That was the home ranch for Papagni Fruit Company,” he recalled. “It all started out in Easton, but that was the home ranch.”
He vividly remembers moving to the Copper River property on his 12th birthday. What was once rural farmland has since been transformed into suburban neighborhoods—a reflection of the urban growth that has reshaped California’s agricultural landscape.
“It was a journey from Fresno back then,” DiBuduo said. “That’s part of the reason I lived on the West Side with my grandparents for so many years, because Mom and Dad wanted me to go to San Joaquin Memorial. Everything was surrounded by tree fruit and grapes back then.”
From Family Farms to City Limits
Today, much of the farmland that shaped DiBuduo’s youth has been replaced by housing developments—a trend he witnessed firsthand as a longtime member of the Fresno City Planning Commission, where he served for 16 years.
“A lot of that ground was put into houses,” DiBuduo said. “There was a bigger demand for housing in California and in Fresno. My five sisters and brothers all needed houses, and it gobbled up ag ground as part of the process.”
He explained that while local leaders tried to preserve agricultural land to the north and southeast, population growth and urban demand ultimately reduced available farmland. “Everybody had their limits on how much ag land they would be willing to compromise,” he said.
The Changing Face of the Wine Industry
The veteran grower also reflected on the state of California’s wine industry—a sector undergoing major transformation. “When I was active at Allied Grape Growers, we had close to 500,000 acres of wine grapes in California,” DiBuduo noted. “Now, we’re probably down to 400,000 acres.”
The decline, he explained, is visible throughout Fresno and Madera counties, where piles of uprooted vineyards are being shredded and replaced. “The industry has changed. The consumer has changed,” he said. “That’s affected the wineries, which has affected the growers, which has affected demand for grapes.”
He referenced a recent Wall Street Journal article discussing “the demise of the California wine industry,” highlighting how shifting consumer habits and market forces are reshaping one of the state’s most iconic agricultural exports.
A Cycle of Reinvention
Despite the challenges, DiBuduo remains optimistic. At 75, he’s seen multiple agricultural cycles come and go. “The table grape industry has seen its ups and downs, but it came back,” he said. “People like eating table grapes—they’re good and healthy for you.”
He pointed to the wine industry’s history of reinvention—from generic “Burgundy” and “Chablis” labels to the rise of varietal wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio. “That was the kick up of the wine industry,” he said. “Then came the wine coolers, bringing in new young consumers.”
But he also noted that the current downturn is different. “The Surgeon General came out and said everything with alcohol is not good for you. He actually attacked wine as being unhealthy,” DiBuduo explained. “We’ve always known that good wine, red wine especially, has health benefits when consumed in moderation.”
He urged the industry to reclaim that message: “If you drink good quality wine in moderation, it’s good for you and it’s good for the industry.”
Marketing to a New Generation
Papagni and DiBuduo both acknowledged that younger generations are drinking less alcohol and are less familiar with wine. “Younger people walk into a store and see 75 bottles of wine—they have no idea what to pick,” Papagni said.
DiBuduo agreed, emphasizing that better marketing and education are key. “You’re right,” he said. “There are so many different wines that it’s somewhat intimidating. If you can get to a wine tasting, that’s great. If not, stores like Total Wine do tastings in-store and do a good job.”
He also lamented the lack of strong marketing campaigns for wine, contrasting it with other commodities. “You see the beer commercials. When was the last time you saw a good strong wine commercial, Nick?”
Innovation and Accessibility
To reach younger consumers, DiBuduo believes the wine industry must innovate. “Different packaging—like wine in cans—so they can take it into football stadiums or have individual sizes, I think that’s a good idea,” he said.
He added that the trend toward lower-alcohol or non-alcoholic wines could also attract new audiences. “These are all good things, but you’ve got to tell your story to get the consumer to try them.”
The High Cost of Farming in California
When asked about the broader struggles facing grape growers, DiBuduo didn’t hold back. “You nailed it with all the regulations, which cost money, and with the cost of labor in California, which affects your bottom line,” he said.
“It’s almost cost-prohibitive to farm without having higher production,” he added. “You’ve got to have better production than we’ve had in the past. That means investing in technology and research to produce higher yields of quality grapes.”
He echoed a sentiment shared by many California farmers: the need for political leaders who understand agriculture. “We need legislators that realize the importance of the ag industry that feeds California, the U.S., and the world,” DiBuduo said. “Until we get people in office who are sensitive to that, we have a problem.”
A Voice for California Farmers
In the continuation of AgMeter’s interview with Nat DiBuduo, former Allied Grape Growers President and longtime advocate for California’s agricultural community, the conversation turned toward politics, education, and one of the state’s most pressing issues—water. Known affectionately as the “Godfather of the Grape Industry,” DiBuduo offered candid insights into how policy, public awareness, and leadership continue to shape the future of California farming.
Proposition 50 and Political Balance
When asked about Proposition 50, a measure that could add five new congressional seats to California and further shift the state’s political balance, DiBuduo didn’t hesitate to share his concern.
“I think it’d be a disaster in the Central Valley, and it’d be a disaster for California,” he said. “We need balance—and we obviously do not have balance.”
DiBuduo stressed the importance of finding political leaders who understand and respect the agricultural backbone of the state. “Finding a good conservative governor, conservative legislature is important for the overall success of California,” he said. “You mentioned Prop 50—that’s just one issue. There’s also a petition out there for voter ID. It’s just as important to who’s voting as it is to what they’re voting for.”
Educating Leaders Who Don’t Understand the Land
As the head of Allied Grape Growers, DiBuduo often worked with political officials who had never set foot on a farm. “Of course it was tough,” he admitted. “They buy their produce in a store and have no idea how it’s grown.”
He credited organizations such as the California Ag Leadership Program and the California Association of Wine Grape Growers (CAWG) for bridging that gap. “They would bring legislators out to the ranches to educate them,” he explained. “We’re not the evil people out there spraying chemicals because we want to spend money. Farmers are the number one environmentalist out there. We live on the land—we’re not going to harm our families or our future.”
Yet, despite education efforts, misinformation persists. “You’ve got people out there calling farmers the bad guys,” DiBuduo said. “It hurts when you know you’re doing your best to be part of a successful society and industry.”
Farmers: The Original Environmentalists
Host Nick Papagni echoed DiBuduo’s sentiment, calling out mainstream media misconceptions. “The best environmentalists we have in the entire world are our farmers,” Papagni said. “Just look at how many generations have cared for the same land.”
DiBuduo emphasized the need to educate young people early about where their food comes from. “One of the most important programs we have is at the Fresno Fair,” he said. “They bring kids from all over—rural and city schools—to see how plants are grown and how animals are raised.”
He encouraged parents and teachers to get students involved. “Next year, if you’ve got school-age kids, encourage them to go,” he said. “Farm Bureau also runs programs that bring kids out to the ranches.”
He recalled a memorable moment shared by Ryan Jacobson’s father, who brought children from Los Angeles to see Central Valley farms. “Some of these kids had never seen a raisin before in their life,” DiBuduo said. “He gave them raisins to eat, and they loved it. That’s what education does—it opens their eyes.”
Inspiring the Next Generation
The importance of agricultural education is something Papagni sees firsthand when interviewing Future Farmers of America (FFA) students. “Many tell me they’ve never been on a farm before,” he said. “Now they want to be part of the industry.”
DiBuduo agreed that ongoing exposure is essential. “We’ve all got to continue that for the next generations,” he said. He also praised the Fresno County Historical Museum and its Italian Heritage Museum, which preserve and honor the agricultural and cultural roots of the San Joaquin Valley.
A Life of Service—But Not Politics
With decades of experience on agricultural boards and community organizations, Papagni asked if DiBuduo had ever considered running for office.
“Oh, yeah, I thought about it,” he admitted with a laugh. “But my family—we’re not strong enough to live in that fishbowl. So, we opted not to.”
Still, he respects those who step into the political arena on behalf of agriculture. “You’ve had people like the Duarte family on your show,” he told Papagni. “They’re sacrificing their business to run for office. I have a lot of respect for what they’ve done as American citizens.”
The Water Crisis: A Man-Made Disaster
When the topic shifted to California’s ongoing water crisis, DiBuduo’s tone grew serious. “We know that water is short,” he said. “The state of California passed a proposition years ago to build more water reservoirs—not a single one has been built, even though the money’s been collected.”
He described driving through the West Side of Fresno County, where once-productive farmland now sits barren. “There’s a program called SGMA (Sustainable Groundwater Management Act) that limits how much groundwater you can pump,” he said. “If we don’t activate the water projects that voters approved, there will be a million acres of top-quality farmland sitting idle.”
“You don’t feed the world with open ground,” he warned.
Papagni added that the lack of water storage creates a ripple effect. “No water for farmers means more dust, more valley fever, more gophers and rats eating irrigation lines,” he said. “And we still send 70 percent of our rainwater to the ocean. Seven and a half billion dollars for storage—and not a penny has gone toward it.”
DiBuduo agreed, pointing to misplaced priorities and bureaucratic fear. “Legislators and administrators are too afraid of the endangered species list,” he said. “They act like the salamander is more important than human beings. I take exception to that. Our kids’ future is more important than the salamander.”
A Message for the Future
As the conversation drew to a close, DiBuduo shared his message for farmers and the next generation of agricultural leaders.
“Stick with it,” he said firmly. “Don’t give up. We’ve seen cycles before, and we’ll find a solution for this one. We can’t idle farms. We can’t stop producing food and clothing for the world. We just have to keep trying—new ideas, new technologies, new promotions, and maybe a few new legislators.”
Papagni thanked his cousin for his decades of leadership and wisdom. “I was nervous going in,” he admitted. “But it’s been an honor to talk with a living legend.”
With a smile, DiBuduo replied, “Nice talking to you, Nick.”
Nat DiBuduo—grape grower, leader, and champion for California agriculture—remains a steadfast voice for the farmers who feed the world.